Not a chance, says one well-known dermatologist. He explains how to decipher real skincare innovation from marketing hype
The fashion industry and auto manufacturers come out with new collections every year, so why shouldn't all industries aim for endless evolution? Because "new" does not always mean "improved."
One example: Foam overlays for mattresses, which add extra cushioning, were first produced in the 1970s. Soon some company developed egg-crate foam overlays. Other companies copied it and evolved the idea even further—with the three-zone mattress overlay. This used the egg-crate model but made the design "square" for the feet, "rounded" for the torso and "rippled" for the head. The theory that your feet define comfort any different from your head was, well, shaky at best. But consumers bought it. The three-zone mattress became a marketing home-run. So what did retailers want the next year? A five-zone mattress overlay—which boasted new zones for the bottom of your leg and the back of your thighs. Of course, the concept was ridiculous, and I’m happy to report that consumers didn’t “buy” it either.
But in skincare, marketing lingo and sales ploys are often harder to spot. A lot of innovations are driven by marketing (not solid, scientific research). Some companies back up their claims with what amounts to voodoo science, some use gimmicks, still others employ outright lies. Unfortunately, the skincare industry is so large, it’s difficult for Federal Trade Commission (or any other industry or government watchdog) to monitor. So how do you know what you can believe? And how do you keep from ponying up hard-earned cash for a product that won't live up to its claims?
- Understand the tricks played in “before and after” photos. For example, in shots where the mouth is cropped out of the photo (presumably so you focus on the wrinkles around the eyes), the subject may be smiling in the “before” picture and, in the "after," she's wearing a straight face, so as not to induce wrinkling around the eye. Remember, if the photos look too good to be true, they probably are.
- Talk to your dermatologist and/or aesthetician before you buy. They read journals and attend trade shows, so they should be informed about the latest advances and can help you navigate which technologies are real innovations—and which are just weird science.
