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Cinderella Goes Surfing

I ditched my prince, then hit the waves.

I'm 46 and well into my second life. (I'm beginning to wonder how many I'll have.) My first life was a fairy tale. It unfolded much like my mom's and her mom's, and that of Cinderella. Though I didn't grow up with an evil stepmother and conniving stepsisters, I did come from humble beginnings and hoped one day to attend a ball, meet my prince, and live happily ever after.

The happily ever after lasted ten years, until I was laid off three times in three years. A job in clothing design had led to graphic design, which led to trade show management. How had I gotten here? Was this my beautiful life? I didn't care about helping a smug CEO make six figures selling widgets that would end up in a landfill! I didn't care about a mortgage. Or rather, I was not willing to work 40+ hours a week at a job I hated for the sake of a house. I took unemployment checks and a photography class, and decided to return to school. I wanted to be a photographer. My life plan and my prince’s were beginning to diverge. 

It was the most difficult decision I've ever made, but I knew I needed to be on my own. I divorced the prince. Just after I moved out (and was trying to stay upright as I weathered my self-induced tsunami), I learned to surf. Many of the women I met in the water were like me:  they came to surfing later in life, and surfing had either instigated a monumental life change or helped them through one.

I adored the image of a female surfer. She was strong, graceful, self-directed, and playful. She was willing to throw herself into the unknown, and by so doing, emerge refreshed. For the next ten years I traveled–up and down the California coast, to Hawaii, New York City, Cape Cod, Narragansett, Mexico, Brazil, France and Spain–and took pictures of the women I met, aged 10 to 50. I asked them why they surfed and how it helped them. Now I'm putting their stories and mine in a book. I wrote it with my nieces in mind, but it's really for all women. It's a modern day fairy tale–not like any I read as a young maiden, but with a happy ending, nonetheless.
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Comments
10.29.2009
MaggieMcB
You go Heather! I love that you took up surfing later in life. I gave up surfing when I married my prince. I was from Lagina Beach, he was an Arizona boy. The desert won out. I love living in Scottsdale and having raised my three sons here, but I always think of the surfing when we go to the ocean. It was the most "free" time of my life. No matter what life threw at me, I could grab my board and paddle out all alone and feel invincible! Enjoy the experience and I promise you will always be able to go back to that place of calm and impowerment in your mind! :)
I think your passion is awesome to say the least!
07.14.2009
Amy
I loved this fascinating story, and I'd like to read more about both Heather and the other women surfers' journeys. The article and pictures are captivating! Amy Tompkins
07.11.2009
Maya Pinion
I don't swim, so I don't dare surf but I definitely admire those men and women alike who can ride the waves. Inspiring!
07.10.2009
Kathy Holmes
What a great story - inspiring and I love the image of it. After chasing the "dream house" all over the country, I've decided I must commit even more to chasing my writing dreams instead. Love it!
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