Fill in your brows. A well-defined arch directs attention upward, making the lid appear lifted. Then apply a neutral shadow from lashline to brow. For pale skin, look for a bone color or soft pink. For medium to darker skin tones, try something warmer like a beige or rosy brown.
Dust a smoky color like brownish pink or dusty lavender from the lashline to the crease. Then use the same color, only layered on a little thicker, inside the crease. Subtly darkening this area makes the lid look larger, says New York makeup artist Kimara Ahnert.
Using a narrow, pointy brush, line the top lashes with a gel-based eyeliner such as Stila Smudge Pots ($18; stila.com). Once the gel liner dries, it won’t sink into crepey skin. Finish by lining the inside of the lower lid with a white eyeliner pencil. "A droopy lid makes your eyes look smaller, but the white pencil opens them back up," Ahnert says.