Eat, Drink, Read

Starting here, starting now, More’s Book Club, with everything you need: a hot new book, evocative food, imaginative cocktails. Just add friends.
 

Images loading...

Book Club No. 1: Cinderella Ate My Daughter by Peggy Orenstein (Harper)

Peggy Orenstein’s latest book is a sparkling and provocative look at the new "girlie girl" culture that has taken our daughters hostage, in which pink is all-powerful, pretty is crucial, and Disney princesses are the reigning role models. Orenstein is an enlightened observer, one who notices the smarmy subtexts in ostensibly harmless cultural messages. She is struck by the ever-greater emphasis on physical appearance at a time when young girls are assumed to be empowered in a way they were not two decades ago. "But honestly," she writes, "since when did every little girl become a princess? It wasn’t like this when I was a kid, and I was born back when feminism was still a mere twinkle in our mothers’ eyes. We did not dress head to toe in pink. We did not have our own miniature high heels." In an effort to understand how the emphasis on beauty continues to dominate mainstream culture despite the proliferation of girls’ successes-"They were flooding the playing field, excelling in school, outnumbering boys in college"-Orenstein sets out to take a closer look at citadels of collective gender segregation. These include the Universal Royalty Texas State Beauty Pageant, where the author overhears a mother advise her six-year-old that "one of the judges is a man, so be sure you wink at him!"; and a Miley Cyrus appearance in Oakland, where the prepubescent fans wear high-heeled boots and "zebra-print shirts with sparkling bodices that would have highlighted their cleavage had they had any." Orenstein worries about our growing tolerance for early "hypersexualization" and sympathizes with the plight of her five-year-old daughter Daisy’s friend Ava, "a big girl with a big appetite. The girl’s mother worries that Ava will spend her girlhood locked in a losing battle against her size, sinking into self-loathing when she fails." The author analyzes Grimm’s fairy tales and talks to a female neuroscientist about nature versus nurture. While some of this is familiar territory, Orenstein’s insights are disturbing, funny and surprising-and will make you keep a careful eye on the choices your daughter makes from the cradle onward. -Daphne Merkin
Photo by David Meredith

Little Miss Princess Cocktail

Makes 1 drink • 1 teaspoon pomegranate seeds • 1 ounce Stoli White Pomegranate vodka • ounce St-Germain elderflower liqueur • 1/4 ounce fresh lemon juice • 3 ounces rosé Champagne Drop pomegranate seeds into a Champagne flute. Pour in vodka, St-Germain and lemon juice. Carefully top with the Champagne. Cocktail recipes by Charlotte Voisey
Photo by David Meredith

Lamingtons

Prep time: 50 minutes Cooking time: 35 minutes Makes 16 • 2 cups all-purpose flour • 2 teaspoons baking powder • 1/4 teaspoon salt • 1 stick unsalted butter ( cup), softened • ¾ cup granulated sugar • 2 large eggs •1 teaspoon vanilla extract • cup whole milk • 1 3-ounce packet strawberry Jell-O • 2 tablespoons strawberry jam •1 cup cold water • 3 cups desiccated unsweetened coconut 1. Preheat the oven to 350›. Butter or spray an 8-by-8-inch square baking pan. Line bottom with parchment paper. Butter or butter-spray paper and dust the pan with flour; tap out excess. 2. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder and salt. Set aside. In the bowl of a stand mixer, beat the butter until soft and creamy. Add the sugar, and beat until light and fluffy. Add the eggs one at a time until incorporated. Add the vanilla. Alternate flour mixture and milk in three additions. Beat until just combined. Scrape into pan, and bake until a toothpick comes out clean, 35 to 40 minutes, rotating pan after 20minutes. 3. Cool on a rack for 20 minutes or until cool enough to touch, and turn out of pan, removing parchment from bottom. Place right side up on rack to cool completely. Trim edges and top off cake to create a level, square white cake with few or no browned edges. Cut the cake into 16 even pieces. Set aside. 4. Empty the Jell-O packet into a medium bowl. Bring one cup of water to a boil. Pour over Jell-O and mix; then stir in the jam until both are dissolved. Stir in cold water. Place bowl over a large bowl filled with ice water. Stir until Jell-O mixture becomes cold and starts to thicken but is not set. 5. Place the coconut in a shallow bowl. Line a baking sheet with foil. Using a fork, dip each cake square into the Jell-O (it should be thick enough to coat the cake), then gently roll the cakes in the coconut to coat. Place on baking sheet to dry. They will keep for 2 days in an airtight container. Food recipes by Susan Spungen
Photo by David Meredith

Pink Cupcakes

Prep time: 32 minutes Cooking time: 20 minutes Makes 12 Cupcakes • 1 cups all-purpose flour •1 teaspoons baking powder • 1/4 teaspoon salt • 1 stick unsalted butter ( cup), softened • 1 cup granulated sugar • 2 large eggs • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract • cup milk Glaze • 2 cups confectioner’s sugar • 2 tablespoons milk (and more if needed) • Pink or red food coloring • 12 small red raspberries for garnish 1. To make the cupcakes: Preheat the oven to 350›. Line 12 cupcake cups with liners. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder and salt. Set aside. In the bowl of a stand mixer, beat the butter until soft and creamy. Add the sugar, and beat until light and fluffy. Add the eggs one at a time until incorporated. Add the vanilla. Alternate adding flour mixture and milk in three additions. Beat until just combined. Fill cupcake papers ¾ full, and bake 20 to 25 minutes, rotating pan halfway through, until a toothpick inserted in the middle comes out clean. Cool completely on rack. 2. To make the glaze: In a small bowl, stir together the confectioner’s sugar and 2 tablespoons milk. Slowly add food coloring with a toothpick until desired pink shade is achieved. Top each cupcake with 1 teaspoon glaze. Spread decoratively toward the edges to create a scalloped, just-dripping effect. Top each with one small raspberry.
Photo by David Meredith

Raspberry Macarons

Prep time: 45 minutes Cooking time: 20 to 25 minutes Makes 20 macarons • 3 ounces almond meal (or almond flour), about ¾ cup, or blanched sliced almonds, about ¾ cup • 1 cups confectioner’s sugar • 3 large egg whites, at room temperature • Pinch of salt • 3 tablespoons granulated sugar • Red or pink food coloring • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract • Raspberry jam 1. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper. Slide another baking sheet under each one. Preheat the oven to 325›, and place oven racks in the top and bottom thirds of the oven. Combine the almond meal or sliced almonds and confectioner’s sugar in the bowl of a food processor. Pulse until powdery, 30 to 60 seconds for meal, 2 minutes for sliced almonds. Set aside. 2. Place the egg whites and salt in the clean bowl of a stand mixer. Beat with whisk attachment slowly at first, increasing in speed until soft, foamy peaks form. Slowly add the granulated sugar, and beat on high speed until stiff, glossy peaks form. Quickly fold in 4 drops of food coloring and the vanilla. Gently fold the almond mixture into the egg whites, and continue folding until the mixture is a bit loose and shiny and no longer looks bubbly and airy, about 15 times after the almond mixture is incorporated. 3. Transfer mixture to a pastry bag fitted with a large plain tip, or a large resealable plastic bag with the corner snipped off. Pipe 20 round mounds about 1 inches in diameter on each baking sheet. Smooth peaks with a small spatula. Gently rap sheets against the counter. Let dry at room temperature for about 20 to 45 minutes (depending on humidity) until the surfaces have lost their shine and no longer feel tacky when touched. 4. Bake one set of sheets on each oven rack, for 10 to 15 minutes, then rotate pans and switch their positions, and continue baking another 10 minutes, checking frequently to avoid browning. If the macarons start to brown, lower temperature to 300, and prop oven door open slightly. Cool completely on cooling racks. 5. Carefully peel the cookies off the parchment. Make sandwiches with a scant teaspoon of jam, and refrigerate in an airtight container for 24 hours.
Photo by David Meredith

Book Club No. 2: You Know When the Men Are Gone by Siobhan Fallon (Amy Einhorn/Putnam)

We all know that our country has sent soldiers to Iraq, but maybe we don’t know how it feels to be part of a soldier’s family. To live here while your husband is there, to live with the constant presence of fear, hope and longing: This is the subject of Siobhan Fallon’s darkly lovely first book of fiction. Fallon’s linked stories, set at the army base of Fort Hood, Texas, are about the women left behind. This is a complicated community informed by loyalty and generosity but also by anxiety and competition. The women are from different countries and backgrounds but have been unified by the military culture. The professional and the domestic are inextricably entwined here: The army determines the length of your grass, and military police will remove an unruly dog. At 5:30 pm exactly, people stop their cars, get out and stand facing the flag, hands on hearts, while the loudspeakers play the retreat. Within this strictly codified world there are, of course, wild dramas. One woman learns that her new neighbor, Natalya, a terrifyingly beautiful Serb, was a hairdresser on an overseas army base before her husband divorced his wife at home and married her. The Fort Hood wives invite Natalya to playgroups and bake sales, but they’re afraid of her: "They knew she could happen to any of them." Natalya is solitary, rude and impenetrable. She leaves her toddlers alone at night and heads off in high heels. No one knows where she goes or who her male visitor is. The narrator, eavesdropping through their shared wall, is torn between shocked disapproval and compassion. In another story, a jealous husband returns secretly from Iraq, sneaking into his own house like a commando and camping in the basement for days to find out if his wife is cheating on him. These lives are full of the small, mundane things-boredom, frustration and pettiness-but also the big, important ones: courage, longing and understanding. These women, like their husbands, face fear daily and transcend it. The community may seem unfamiliar, but in these eloquent stories, Fallon, like any good writer, shows us it’s made of people like ourselves. -Roxana Robinson
Photo by David Meredith

American Pie, aka the Classic Whiskey Sour

Makes 1 drink • ¾ ounce simple syrup (1 cup sugar boiled with 1 cup water, then cooled) • 2 ounces rye whiskey • ¾ ounce fresh lemon juice • 1 lemon wedge Combine the simple syrup, rye whiskey and lemon juice in a cocktail shaker, and shake well. Serve over ice in a cocktail glass. Squeeze the lemon wedge over drink, and drop in.
Photo by David Meredith

Chicken and Dumplings

Prep time: 42 minutes Cooking time: 2 hours Serves 6 to 8 Stew • 1 4- to 5-pound chicken, quartered • 2 celery stalks • 6 carrots • 2 small onions, 1 halved, 1 chopped • 1 bay leaf • 2 sprigs thyme • 1 teaspoon peppercorns • teaspoon salt, plus more for seasoning • 8 cups water, or enough to cover chicken • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter • 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour • Freshly ground black pepper Dumplings • 2 cups all-purpose flour • 2 teaspoons baking powder • ¾ teaspoon salt • 1 tablespoon chopped parsley • 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves • 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted •1 cup whole milk •1 cups frozen peas, thawed 1. To make the stew: Place the chicken, 1 celery stalk and 1 carrot (both cut in thirds), the halved onion, bay leaf, thyme, peppercorns, salt and water in a Dutch oven, and bring to a low simmer. Partially cover, and simmer for 1 hour. Meanwhile, slice remaining carrots in rounds, dice celery, and set aside. After an hour, remove the chicken to a plate to cool. Strain broth and skim off fat using a fat separator. Reserve broth. Rinse out Dutch oven. 2. Over medium-high heat, melt the butter in the Dutch oven, and sauté celery and onion, 5 to 7 minutes, until onion is translucent. Add the carrots and flour. Lower heat, and cook 5 minutes more, stirring. Add 6 cups of the broth. Bring to a boil. Discard the skin and tear the chicken into large pieces, and add to the pot. Bring to a simmer. Season with salt and pepper. 3. To make the dumplings: In a medium bowl, stir together the flour, baking powder, salt and herbs with a fork. Add the melted butter and milk, and stir to combine. Drop the dough into the stew by the soupspoonful. Cover, and cook 20 minutes, without removing lid. Add the peas, nudging them under the dumplings; simmer a few minutes to heat, and serve. Note: If you’re making this dish ahead, add the peas at the last minute when reheating it.
Photo by David Meredith

Old-Fashioned Apple Pie

Prep time: 45 minutes Baking time: 60 minutes Makes one 9-inch pie Dough • 4 cups all-purpose flour • 1 teaspoon salt • 2 teaspoons sugar • 3 sticks ice-cold unsalted butter • cup ice water Filling • cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar • 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon • 6 assorted apples, including Granny Smith and McIntosh, about 31/4 pounds • Zest and juice of lemon • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract • 2 tablespoons flour • Freshly grated nutmeg (about ? teaspoon) • 1 tablespoon butter, optional 1. To make the dough: Combine the flour, salt and sugar in a food processor, and pulse a few times. Cut the butter into tablespoon-size pieces, and add to the food processor; pulse until the pieces are the size of peas. With the machine running, quickly pour in the ice water, and mix until just combined, about 30 seconds. The mixture should look dry and crumbly. Turn the flour-butter mixture into a bowl, and work the dough into a rough mass with your hands. If it is too dry, sprinkle in a little more water. Push the dough firmly, pressing against the sides of the bowl, and it will begin to come together. 2. Divide the dough in half, and wrap in plastic wrap. Press down to form flat disks about 1 inches thick. Chill until firm, at least a half hour. On a lightly floured surface, roll one dough round until it is a little more than ? inch thick. Trim into a circle a few inches larger than a 9-inch deep-dish pie plate. Loosely roll the crust around the rolling pin, and transfer it to the pie plate. Chill. Repeat with the remaining dough, and chill on a parchment-lined baking sheet. 3. To make the filling: Preheat the oven to 375›. In a small bowl, combine 1 tablespoon sugar and teaspoon cinnamon. Set aside. Peel the apples and slice thin. In a large bowl, toss the apples with the remaining sugar, the lemon zest and juice, vanilla, flour, 1teaspoons cinnamon and the nutmeg. Pack tightly into chilled bottom crust, and dot the top with 1 tablespoon cut-up butter, if using. 4. Drape top crust over the apples. Brush edges of top and bottom crust with a little water, and press edges to seal. Trim edge of dough to about 1 inches overhang all around. Roll under so that the crust edge is resting on the lip of the pie dish, and crimp edges. Cut long vents in the top. Brush the top crust with a little water, and sprinkle with cinnamon sugar. Place on a foil-lined baking sheet. Bake until juices are bubbling thickly, 60 to 75 minutes. Let cool completely before cutting.
Photo by David Meredith

Book Club No. 3: Swamplandia! by Karen Russell (Knopf)

At first, Ava Bigtree’s predicament won’t seem typical. She’s a 13-year-old alligator wrestler in training who lives at her family’s gator-centric theme park, Swamplandia! (the exclamation point comes with the territory), on an isolated island off Florida’s Gulf Coast, where her mother, Hilola, supports them by diving into a pit filled with alligators. But when Hilola gets taken out by a lightning-fast cancer; and Ava’s father hits the bottle and goes AWOL; and her brother, Kiwi, moves to the mainland and gets a job with Swamplandia!‘s high-tech competitor in a last-ditch attempt to stave off bankruptcy; and her sister, Oceola, elopes with a ghost, Ava is left very much alone with 98 alligators, a bear named Judy Garland and a nearly bottomless quagmire of grief. It is only when Swamplandia!‘s quirky menagerie and marshy magic prove no match for the pain of a preteen trying to hold her whole world together that Ava becomes deeply familiar and utterly sympathetic. And when a hooknosed man wearing a coat of black feathers appears out of thin air and offers to take Ava to the underworld in search of her sister, she is just plucky and desperate enough to accept. Karen Russell is a fine purveyor of the unexpected, humorous and razor-sharp description: Her gators have "icicle overbites," and Kiwi’s laughter is as "joyless as flat cola." Exactly often enough, her vivid description gives way to a deftly inserted truth. "People thought the worst robbers stole the most, whole vaults. But it was the smallest denomination that you stole . . . that was the real measure of your greed." And later, "Whip gave me what I guess you’d call a rueful smile, which I understood as a kid to be . . . a smile with a pretty bad joy:knowledge ratio." Swamplandia! flashes brilliantly-holographically-between a surreal tale brimming with sophisticated whimsy and an all-too-realistic portrait of a quaint but dysfunctional family under pressure in a world that threatens to make them obsolete. We never know exactly what to believe in, but we always know whom to root for. Ava is a true contemporary heroine and not easily forgotten; in the alligators she wrestles, we recognize our own. -Pam Houston
Photo by David Meredith

Swamplandia! Cocktail

Makes 1 drink • 3 slices seedless cucumber, unpeeled, plus 1 for garnish • Half a kiwi, peeled and sliced • 1 ounces white rum • 1/4 ounce green Chartreuse • ounce simple syrup (see recipe for American Pie cocktail) • ounce fresh lime juice • Mint leaves In an old-fashioned glass, muddle the cucumber and kiwi; add the other ingredients and ice. Garnish with fresh mint and a cucumber slice.
Photo by David Meredith

Blackened Red Snapper

Prep time: 10 minutes Cooking time: 10 minutes Serves 6 to 8 • 1 stick unsalted butter ( cup), melted • 4 teaspoons kosher salt • 1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper • 2 tablespoons sweet paprika • 1 tablespoons onion powder • 1 tablespoons garlic powder • 2 teaspoons cayenne pepper • 2 teaspoons dried thyme • 8 red snapper fillets, skinned (3 pounds) • Lemon wedges 1. Place 6 tablespoons melted butter in a medium shallow bowl. In a second medium shallow bowl, combine all the seasonings (salt through thyme). Dip each fish fillet in melted butter, then coat each lightly in the seasoning mixture. 2. Heat a large, heavy skillet over high heat until hot. Add 1 tablespoon melted butter. Sear 4 fish fillets at once, 2 to 3 minutes on each side, until the seasoning is dark and crusty and the fish is cooked through. Remove the fillets to a plate. Add the remaining tablespoon of melted butter to the skillet; repeat. Serve with lemon wedges. Note: In lieu of separate seasonings, you can use a premade blackening spice mix.
Photo by David Meredith

Citrus Salad

Serves 6 to 8 • 1 pink grapefruit • 2 oranges • 2 clementines • 1 avocado • 3 cups baby arugula • Zest and juice of 1 lime • 1 tablespoon honey • 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil • Kosher salt • Freshly ground black pepper 1. Cut off the ends of the grapefruit. Place on a cutting board, and slice off remaining peel from top to bottom, making sure to remove all the white pith. Hold the grapefruit over a bowl to catch the juice, and use a small paring knife to slice between the membranes. Lift out the sections and place in a bowl. Peel and segment the oranges and clementines, and peel and slice the avocado lengthwise. Set aside each separately. 2. Arrange the arugula on a platter. Lift citrus segments out of their juices; reserve the juice. Scatter the grapefruit and oranges, then the clementines and avocado, over the arugula. Zest the lime, and squeeze the juice into the bowl of citrus juice. Whisk in the honey and oil. Add the salt and pepper. Drizzle as much dressing as needed over the salad immediately before serving.
Photo by David Meredith

Key Lime Bars

Prep time: 45 minutes Cooking time: 27 minutes, plus 4hours to chill Makes 16 • 1 cup finely ground graham cracker crumbs (about 7 full boards) • 1 cup granulated sugar, divided • 1/4 cup toasted coconut (Baker’s Angel Flake) • 5 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted • 3 large eggs • Zest of 2 limes • 1 14-ounce can sweetened condensed milk • ? cup regular or Key lime juice (about 6 limes) • Pinch of salt 1. Preheat the oven to 350›. Line an 8-by-8-inch square baking pan with two pieces of foil, creating an inch overhang on all sides. In a medium bowl, stir together the crumbs,1/4 cup sugar and the coconut. Stir in the melted butter. Press evenly into the bottom of the prepared pan. Bake for 10 minutes. Set aside. 2. Separate the eggs, reserving the whites. Place the yolks in the bowl of a mixer. Add the lime zest. Beat for 5 minutes on high until thick. Reduce the speed, and add the milk in a steady stream. Add the lime juice, and beat until just combined. Spread over the crust, and bake until just set, about 10 minutes. Cool completely on a rack. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours. 3. Heat the broiler. Bring a pot of water to simmer. Place the egg whites, a pinch of salt and ¾ cup sugar in a clean mixer bowl, and set atop the water while stirring with a whisk to dissolve the sugar. When the mixture reaches 160, return the bowl to the mixer stand. Beat on high with the whisk attachment until the bowl is cool to touch and the meringue is stiff, thick and glossy, about 6 minutes. Spread it on top of the chilled tart; rake decoratively with a fork. Slide under the broiler, and brown it quickly, 1 to 1 minutes. Chill until ready to serve. Cut into 16 squares.
Photo by David Meredith
First Published January 18, 2011

What’s your reaction?

Comments

Post new comment

Click to add a comment