The back terrace of the Winter Palace Hotel in Luxor, a luxurious 19th-century building.
It takes a dozen men to inflate a balloon for an enchanting early-morning ride above Luxor.
Katherine Lanpher sketches and takes notes to record her travels, even while ballooning.
A boat rests against the banks of the Nile’s Elephantine Island, home to a Nubian village.
An Ottoman-era gate near the famous Khan al-Khalili bazaar in Cairo.
Katherine Lanpher (right) learning the art of belly dancing.
Cairo’s Hanging Church, a Coptic Christian sanctuary dating from the third or fourth century AD, named for the way it is suspended over the gate of an old fort.
Katherine Lanpher and friends at their falafel stand in Aswan.
The temple of Karnak.
Felucca captain and poet Saleem on his boat, Relax.
Vanilla beans and hibiscus in an old Cairo bazaar.
Camel rides at the Pyramids are romantic, but a taxi to this tourist site is probably a wiser, simpler bet.
One of the shopping stalls at Khan al-Khalili, where you can haggle for old Bedouin silver.
The 15th-century BC temple of Queen Hatshepsut, one of Egypt’s few female rulers.
Spices at the Aswan bazaar.
A balloon over Luxor.
The Great Sphinx of Giza and the Pyramid of Khafre.
Bikes near the Luxor Temple.
The tombs in the Valley of the Kings, in Luxor (the site of ancient Thebes).
Originally published in MORE magazine, December 2007/January 2008.
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