Beauty Etiquette: The Graduate Course

Whether it’s an age-old debate (should you tip the salon owner?) or a newer dilemma (how do you tell a friend she’s over-Botoxed?), follow these pro tips to get through sticky situations with aplomb.

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Issue: Shrinking Funds, Growing Locks

I’m embarrassed to tell my hairstylist that I can’t afford to visit the salon every six weeks anymore. How can I ask for a cut that needs less maintenance without admitting why?

 

Your stylist has heard the intimate details of your marriage, your divorce, your battles with your kids and your latest run-in with Ben & Jerry. (And if he hasn’t heard it from you, trust us, he’s heard it all from just about everyone else.) Granted, it can be easier to discuss your sex life than your cash flow problems, but for now, stow the shyness. “Honesty is the way to go here,” says Ted Gibson, owner of an eponymous Manhattan salon. “Your stylist will understand and give you a cut that lasts longer so that you need to come in only four times a year. A rule of thumb: Shorter hair needs attention more often; longer hair will retain its shape for several months.” Also, in most places, bang trimming between cuts is complimentary, so be sure to ask.

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Issue: Over Sharing at the Spa

My masseuse started telling me how her boyfriend had broken up with her. I replied that I was very sorry but I would love to lie quietly and focus on the massage. She stopped talking but spent the rest of the hour sighing loudly. Should I have told her supervisor?

 

 You did the right thing. Just because your masseuse has a captive audience—you—doesn’t mean you have to take it lying down. Silence is the industry standard, so you were totally within your rights, says Samantha Cooper, spa director of Canyon Ranch in Lenox, Massachusetts. She points out that you tried to make it clear that this was your time to decompress and you preferred to avoid conversation. If this happens again and the masseuse continues to talk, she suggests you be polite but direct. “You can say, ‘You know, I would really appreciate silence.’ That word indicates no talking, muttering or even sighing,” she says. “If it doesn’t work, then yes, ask to speak to the manager—not afterward but right away. You should never feel obligated to continue a service if you’re not enjoying it. Or, the next time you book, state clearly that you prefer quiet. The person at the desk will note that in the appointment calendar.”

Issue: Plastic Surgery Promises between Pals

My best friend and I made a pact to tell each other when it’s time for a surgical tweak. For her that time has come. Shall I tell her—or keep my mouth shut?

 

Diplomacy is an absolute must in this situation. And even if you think your skills are on the Hillary Clinton level, this approach should be attempted only if (a) you’re sure your pal is not going through a rough patch that might make her feel particularly vulnerable, and (b) there are no hidden fault lines in your relationship that could lead to a misunderstanding. If you decide to bring up the topic, do so in the spirit of togetherness. “You might start with, ‘Remember that pact we made? I’m looking in the mirror, and I’m not sure if it’s time for me to do something. Do you feel the same? Maybe we should go for a consult together,’ ” suggests celebrity dermatologist Fredric Brandt. Actually, going to a plastic surgeon in pairs is quite common—the grownup equivalent of grouptrips to the ladies’ room. But if you both choose to “have a little work,” go one at a time; that way you can take turns bringing each other ice packs.

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Issue: To Tip or Not to Tip?

 

Can you settle once and for all whether I should tip the owner of the hair salon if he or she does my hair?

 

“It’s not necessary,” says Gibson. “It is nice to tip at holiday time, though, to show that you appreciate the service you’ve gotten throughout the year.” You needn’t come up with a year’s worth of tips rolled into one, but it’s not the time to Scrooge out either. Gibson, ever the diplomat, says whatever you feel com­fortable giving will be appreciated. But keep in mind that in tough times,salon owners make sure their employees are paid first, even if it means cutting back on their own salaries. (And giving some homemade cookies wouldn’t hurt.)

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Issue: Scent and Sun Salutions

How much perfume is too much in yoga class? I go from the office and don’t have time to shower first, butI don’t want to offend anyone with my scent.

 

“When you get to the studio, wash your hands as well as your wrists and neck,” suggests Dana Slamp, an instructor at New York’s Pure Yoga. “That will remove most traces of perfume.” There are other benefits to a quick freshening up, she adds: “When you wash your hands before hitting the mat, you’re washing off other people’s energy. It signals you’re done with work and ready to start your practice fresh.” And if someone else’s scent is getting to you in class? “Practice tolerance, realizing you could easily be the offender yourself. Don’t say anything; that would put both of you in a negative space.” (This, ladies, is why sheis the yoga teacher.)

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Issue: Botox Intervention

My friend has become a Botox addict. Seriously, she looks as though she’s been in a deep freeze. How can I stage an intervention?

 

Unlike other forms of needle addiction, Botox is not life threatening, so ixnay on an intervention. As long as your friend is happy with her looks, it’s not your place to say anything. The only exception: if (and only if) your friend asks what you think of the work she’s having done. But tread carefully. “Put the onus on the doctorrather than your friend,” recommends Brandt. (For the record, this is the first time we’ve ever heard that from a doctor!) “You could say something like, ‘I’ve seen other people who use Botox, and they look quite natural. Do you think your doctor is doing a little too much? You might look even prettier if the Botox was a little more understated.’ ” As Brandt points out, no one can resist the promise of looking prettier. Worried about your own needle addiction? One warning sign that you’ve gone a vial too far: Your forehead is shiny, and your lower lids have dropped. There, we told you. 

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Issue: Hair Color Disappointment

I’ve had the same woman color my hair for years, and we’ve become friends. The thing is, lately I hate what she’s been doing to my hair. I’ve subtly suggested changes, but she doesn’tseem to get it. What should I do?

 

“Since you’ve already tried subtlety, be clear without getting emotional,” says Gretta Monahan, a consulting stylist for Dove Hair Care and a contrib-utor to the Rachael Ray Show. “Keep the conversation strictly professional and explain exactly what you dislike. Illustrate your point with pictures of your hair when you loved how she was doing it.” Titi Branch, co-owner of Miss Jessie’s Hair Care and Salon in SoHo, agrees that the problem is often one of communication. “ ‘Auburn’ can mean one thing to you and something completely different to someone else. You need visuals.” Even if you’re not BFFs with your stylist, you should speak up if you’re not happy, Branch says. “You might like how the color looks in the salon but feel differently when you get home. By all means, go back and ask for a fix.” Finally, if all else fails, consider gently telling your friend you’d like to try someone new for color—and keep her as a pal. Jason Backe, a celeb colorist for L’Oréal Professionnel (and a man who has been known to hang with his celeb clients), assures us it may be a relief to your stylist as well: “After all, we don’t necessarily want to talk about your hair over dinner!”

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Issue: Makeup Meltdown

My mother’s eyesight isn’t what it used to be, and her makeup is beginning to look Kabuki. How can I tell her without hurting her feelings?

 

A good start would be to banish the word Ka-buki from your vocabulary. Chances are the heavy hand your mother uses while applying makeup is due to a combination of dimming vision and products that are no longer appropriate. Luckily, both problems are easily remedied. “Why not give your mom a lighted mirror with 10X magnification?” suggests Sandy Linter, makeup artist for Lancôme and coauthor of Make Up Wake Up. “Instead of criticiz-ing her, tell a little white lie and say you just got one for yourself and fell in love with it.” One to try: the Naturally by Kingsley Bathroom Mirror ($12; target.com), which has a suction cup on the back so Mom can stick it to the mirror above her vanity. Linter also suggests adding a goody bag with a set of neutral eyeshadows, a bronzer that won’t go orange and a neutral lip liner to stop color from bleeding. Some of our favorites: Bobbi Brown’s Tortoise Collec­tion Eye Palette ($60; bobbi​brown.com); LancômeStar Bronzer ($36.50; ­lancome-usa.com) and CoverGirl Lip Liner in Seduce ($7; drugstores). Another great fix: Makeup maven Laura Geller is a big fan of special magnifying glasses with a flip-down lens that lets you see clearly through one eye while you apply mascara to the other. Geller’s pick: Kikkerland Makeup Glasses ($5; ­kikkerland.com). Then retool a few of your mom’s favorite products. “If she’s been wearing the same coral lipstick since 1960, buy her a creamy, toned-down formula in the same color family and tell her it is the updated version,” Geller says. “And whatever you do, never say, ‘You look old-fashioned!’ ”

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Issue: Stinky Spinners

This guy who usually rides beside me in my Spinning class is so smelly, it nauseates me. What can I do?

 

“If the class isn’t full, move bikes,” says Equinox Spinning instructor Rachel Buschert Vaziralli. “If the instructor questions you, just say, ‘The music’s too loud over here’ or ‘The fan is blowing too much on me’—something simple where you don’t have to embarrass the smelly person. If every bike is taken, ask the instructor if you can ride her bike. You can tell her why, but do it quietly.” Vaziralli points out that some people wear too many layers in Spinning classes, believing (incorrectly) that if you sweat more, you are getting a better workout—a practice that can backfire because some moisture-wicking fabrics grab on to, and hold on to, odor. If you worry that your own clothes may be stinky, here’s a simple solution: Soak the offending garments in a sinkful of water mixed with a quarter cup of baking soda for 10 minutes, then launder as usual.

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Issue: Minor Mustache

 

I don’t think my sister realizes she has a faint mustache. Should I say something?

 

Think of this as a “spinach in teeth” situation:Wouldn’t youwant to know? “Be straightforward but keep it light,” says Cindy Barshop, owner of the Completely Bare salon and one of the Real Housewives of New York. “You could say, ‘You look like you have a little dust on your lip. The hair probably got a little darker because we’re not in the sun this time of year.’ You can add—whether it’s true or not—‘I had the same thing, and I waxed it.’ ” So what does this queen of bare recommend? “If facial hair is very coarse and dark, opt for laser treatments. If the hair is medium to light, wax. Then, between waxes, use an over-the-counter hair-inhibiting lotion to fendoff regrowth longer. And stay away from bleach. You’ll just end up with a blonde mustache instead of a dark mustache.” Try: Completely Bare Don’t Grow There Body Balm, a hair-­inhibiting lotion that can be used on the face as needed ($38; completely​bare.com). Barshop’s favorite secret weapon, though, is a good old-­fashioned razor. Say what? She says it’s perfect for quick fixes and in her experience won’t make the hair grow back thicker. Shaving also helps treatment products penetrate better, because it takes off the top, dead layer of skin. “I shave my face even where I don’t have hair,” says Barshop.

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Issue: "No-Boundaries" Blow-Drying

There’s a woman at the gym who blow-dries her pubic hair in front of everyone. I mean, yuck. What’s all right—and what’s not—in the locker room?

 

OK, let’s get this out of the way first. All together now: Eewww! Seriously, everyone has her own level of comfort with how much she is willing to bareat the gym, but there is a line that should never be crossed. “It is not your personal bathroom,” says Carol B. Espel, senior national director of group fitness and Pilates at Equinox gyms. “Anything having to do with private parts should be done in private!” Enough said.  

 

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First Published September 30, 2011

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