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Cold Pearls Strewn over Donna Karan Collection

“Pearls of Wisdom”—this is the intriguing and promising name Donna Karan has given to her Fall 2011 collection presented during New York Fashion Week in February. Glamorous sophistication and luxurious elegance has been the dominating theme of the runway. The subtle color palette without a single black stitch varied in all shades and hues of gray, silver, and pale, evoking “the glow of pearls on skin.” Astonishing pearl necklaces created by Erickson Beamon accompanied all the suits and dresses, emphasizing the show’s neutral color gamut.

The reminiscence of the conservative 1950s has taken over the catwalk. High bun coiffures in Grace Kelly style, ethereal makeup, gauzy chiffon headscarves, fur-cuffed elbow-length gloves, and nipped waists were the distinguishing elements of Karan creations. In the upcoming season, Donna Karan’s heroine is cold, aristocratic, and elegant, like a heroine of Alfred Hitchcock. During the day, she wears a mohair tweed pencil skirt and a shimmering silk chiffon blouse, a woolen wraparound dress with a delicate belt, or double-faced wool felt coat. Whilst in the evening, she changes into a shimmering pale gown with intriguing décolleté and seductively open shoulders, a pearl gray stretch jersey dress with an open back and one shoulder sliding down the arm, or a floor-length dress with pearls threaded on a semitransparent silk.

Wrapping, drapes, and folds were the dominant features of the collection. All jersey shifts and evening dresses possess an amazing flexibility of texture, allowing floating folds to shape the outfit according to preference and mood. The impeccably done draping looks very flattering on graceful feminine silhouettes, never bulky or bunching.

“Evolving forward with urban sophistication, embracing a woman’s femininity with conviction, empowering her to express her strength through her softness, modern, elegant, seductive, this is a woman who commands a room”—this is what “Pearls of Wisdom” is all about in the words of Donna Karan.

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